For 15 years we have been waiting for quality, full-fare barbecue to come to Flowood. Dubois Grocery & BBQ, opened in May 2012 by two soon-to-retire veterans — Tim Bennett and Ed Cummins — is the real, full-plate deal.
In all those years, we never could find a place even near Flowood that threw down side dishes worthy of the meats offered, or meats that were as yummy as the sides. Baked beans would be exceptional, but everything else mediocre; or the meat might be tasty, and the side items sorry. Nothing was worth a return visit.
Dubois Grocery & BBQ has changed all that. We have returned again and again and have yet to be disappointed. This barbecue joint opened in the old store and gas station (pumps and the shining, giant metal awning are gone) that long haunted the part of Flowood Drive that connects Airport Road with Liberty Road. Happily the owners kept a cornucopia of the old store’s merchandise — cymbal-bashing windup monkeys, plastic cowboys and Indians, toy train sets, and ancient cameras are tastefully displayed.
We are from Missouri and Kansas, so really wet and juicy Kansas City-style barbecue was what we grew up with. Dubois’ delicious, slightly sweet sauce reminds us a lot of home. And since the meat is smoked and plated without being steeped in sauce, the result is a kind of Memphis-style meats Kansas City-style spectacular.
Dubois delivers it all. The meat and the sides are first rate. The sausage is the juiciest smoke I have yet tasted. Ribs are often so meaty they could easily carry the meat of two ribs elsewhere. The pulled pork is delectable on its own and in the traditional sandwich.
Every side is worth a second helping. The beans are fortified with meat. The coleslaw and macaroni and cheese are mighty tasty. The potato salad is creamily superb, especially if you are tired of the sharp snap of mustard and vinegar.
And it is all made in the back and smoked on site; none of this shipped-in-and-cut-loose-from-a-bag baloney from these two veterans!
Some catering and an event trailer is also available, so call them, and do note as the place gets busier and as the two owners can come to full retirement from the military, hours may change.